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Salsas de Sr. H. Winder (1904)

October 20, 2014
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Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Morante, Paulina. Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder. Méjico, Noviembre 1904. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Cooking classes were a popular past time among Mexico’s middle and upper class women in the early to mid 20th century. Cookbook authors such as Alejandro Pardo and Josefina Velázquez de León earned significant portions of their living as culinary instructors, which provided opportunities to directly influence the culinary (and cookbook-reading) habits of the Mexican elite.

The title of today’s manuscript cookbook, which translates roughly as Recipes of Professor Mrs. H. Winder, seems likely to be the result of creator Paulina Morante’s enrollment in a cooking class of this kind. The recipes are inscribed in a beautiful, unhurried hand (albeit with little or no punctuation) and the title of each dish is clearly marked in larger writing with flourishes. Beginning with soups, the recipe book then moves on to eggs, sauces, an extensive section on fish, poultry and waterfowl, beef and pork, and finally a variety of recipes that don’t seem to fit into a single unified category. This final section includes dishes such as beignets á la Lorraine (Lorraine-style fritters), gelatina (gelatin), alcachofas á la Italiana (Italian artichokes), and Langosta á la Americana (American-style lobster).

Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Following the index for pages 1-57 are several pages of recipes of quite different appearance than the preceding ones. The handwriting appears much more hurried or informal, and although each recipe is still titled, the titles are written in the same style and size of writing as the recipes themselves. Also, unlike in the earlier pages, recipes frequently run together, with no empty lines between them. The recipes in this section primarily consist of chicken and beef dishes, although there is also a recipe for hollandaise sauce, an egg dish, and tamales muy finas. Presumably, Paulina Morante (or a later owner) used the blank pages at the end of her course notes to record other recipes that she wished to remember and keep track of.

The salsas included in the second section of this recipe book are meant to be applicable to a wide variety of dishes. The recipes below explain how to make mayonnaise, tomato sauce, and madeira sauce.


Salsa Mayoneza (00013)

Yemas de huevo
Mostaza Francesa
Mucho aceite
Poco vinagre
Sal pimienta

Se incorpora el huevo con la mostaza despues el aceite pero muy poco á poco casi de gota en gota y sin dejar de de moler la salsa con otra [?] se agrega sal pimienta y al última el vinagre al gusto.

Si á esta salsa se le agrega. [Estrayon], [Perifollo], y pepinos infurtidos y picados se le llama salsa – Tartara

La misma agregandole Challotes se llama – Ravigot

Se pone en una caserola un trozo de mantequilla, seboya, zanahoria, perejil y jamón picado esto se pone á freir cuando lo este se le agrega harina unos jitomates bien desbaratados y un poco de caldo, se pone otra vez á la lumbre con otro trocito de mantequilla. Esta salsa sirve para el pescado para los asados etc. etc. 

 

Mayonnaise (00013)

Egg yolks
French mustard
Lots of oil
A little vinegar
salt and pepper

Mix the eggs with mustard and then the oil, but a little at a time, almost drop by drop, and without ceasing to mix the sauce as you add it. Add the salt and pepper, and at the very end, vinegar to taste.

If the following ingredients are added: tarragon, chervil, and pickled cucumbers (chopped), it is called salsa Tartara.

If the same sauce has shallots added, it is called Ravigote.


Salsa de Jitomate (00014)

Se pone en una caserola un trozo de mantequilla, seboya, zanahoria, perejil y jamón picado esto se pone á freir cuando lo este se le agrega harina unos jitomates bien desbaratados y un poco de caldo, se pone otra vez á la lumbre con otro trocito de mantequilla. Esta salsa sirve para el pescado para los asados etc. etc. 

 

Tomato Sauce (00014)

In a pot, combine a bit of butter, onion, carrots, parsley and ham (all chopped up). As this cooks, add flour, tomatoes (well-mashed) and a little broth. Return to the heat with a bit more butter. This sauce may be served with fish, roasts, etc. etc.


Salsa Madeira (00016)

Se dora en mantequilla un poco de harina á que quede color de chocolate se le agrega jugo de carne o calda yervas de olor sebolla zanahoria y el vino de Madeira que antes habra hervido en un caserola. 

Madeira Sauce (00016)

Brown a little flour in some butter till it turns the color of chocolate. Then, add beef stock or a broth of fragrant herbs, onion, and carrots. Also add Madeira wine (previously brought to boil in another pot).


[1]

High Tea in Mexico

October 13, 2014
Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina (1902) by Hortensia Volante. TX716 .M4 V65 1902. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina (1902) by Hortensia Volante. TX716 .M4 V65 1902. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Volante, Hortensia. Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina. 1902. TX716 .M4 V65 1902.  Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Last week’s post featured menus from Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces, one of eleven school notebooks belonging to Hortensia Volante, ranging in date from 1900-1928. This week, we take a look at one of Hortensia’s notebooks from 1902.

Although Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina contains a wide variety of savory and sweet recipes, one of the most interesting entries is the one for Te (tea). Sandwiched between Dulce de Peras (pear candy) and Natillas (custard), Hortensia recorded instructions not for how to make tea, but for what to serve at Tea, a social meal or event derived from the English tradition.

Te [00040]

Un te resuelta muy bien servido con los siguientes elementos: te, leche, sandwichs,  panecillos de foie gras, petits gateaux de soirée, panecitos, plum puding, un baba, una brioche grande, galletas saladas y de otras sortes, lenguas de gato, pastas para te y dulces. Vinos Jerez y o porto.

Tea [00040]

A tea goes well if the following are served: tea, milk, sandwiches, rolls with foie gras, Petits fours, bread rolls, plum pudding, baba [1], a large brioche [2],  soda crackers and other kinds, cat tongue cookies [3], [pastas] for tea [4], sweet wine, sherry, or port.


[1] Baba is a French dessert, often referring to rum baba, which is a yeast-based pastry saturated with rum and filled with cream.

[2] Brioche is a rich egg bread of French origin.

[3] See past posts for cat tongue cookie recipes. No felines were harmed in the making of these.

[4] Hortensia uses both French and Spanish in her notebooks. If French, pasta would translate as Italian pasta noodles; if Spanish, it would translate as something like pastry dough. In this context, I could imagine it referring either to the kinds of cold pasta salads one might serve at a luncheon or a variety of small pastries suitable for the same.

Dining elegantly in the early 20th century

October 6, 2014
tags:
Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Volante, Cármen. Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. ca. 1910-1919. TX716 .M4 V653 1910.  Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces is one of eleven school notebooks belonging to Hortensia Volante between 1900-1928. This particular volume is the only one ascribed to a different author, most likely one of Hortensia’s relatives.

At almost two hundred pages, this cookbook contains an impressive array of recipes not only for desserts and sweets (as the title implies), but also savory dishes and several menus for fairly elaborate dinners.

The handwriting of the menus is much more upright than that used for the recipes. This might suggest that a different author contributed the menus, or perhaps the menus were written at a later date when her handwriting habits had changed. It is worth noting that several of the recipes after around page 160 also appear to be in a different, less elegantly polished hand.

The title page (beautifully illustrated with wildflowers) contains this menu in French:

  • Pota[c]e a la Julienne / Potage
  • Omelette au jambon / Ham omelette
  • Canard aux salsi[f]is / Duck with sauce
  • Macaronie L’italienne / Italian Macaroni
  • Sole au gratin /  Sole (fish) gratin
  • Filet de Boeuf roti / Fillet of roast beef
  • Desserts. The. Café. Liquers / Desserts, tea, coffee, liqueurs.

Page 46 contains four more menus. Although predominantly in Spanish, French and English words are used periodically.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Menu

  • Sopa de tapioca / Tapioca soup
  • Huevos al raspado / Egg dish made with strips of bread [1]
  • Coles de Bruselas / Brussels sprouts
  • Vaca á la moda / Beef á la mode
  • Macarrones con leche / Macaroni with milk
  • Fricasse de pollo / Chicken Fricasse
  • Pina.   Melón / Pineapple. Melon.
  • Crema á la vainilla / Vanilla cream

Menu

  • Sopa de poro / Leek soup
  • Pescado en salsa blanca / Fish in white sauce
  • Huevos Rusos / Russian eggs (deviled eggs topped with caviar)
  • Pichones en almendra / Squab with almonds
  • Alcachofas / Artichokes
  • Pollo asado / Roast chicken
  • Fresas con nata / Strawberries with cream
  • Crema de café / Coffee cream

Eleven more menus can be found on pages 49-50, most of which are entitled “Diner,” and make heavy use of French, as in the two examples below:

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Diner

  • Potage purée de pois / Pureed peas potage
  • Vol-au-vent / Filled puff pastries
  • Veau a l’oseille [oviera?]/ Veal with sorrel
  • Salade russe / Russian salad
  • Oie rotie [ganso] / Roast goose
  • Crema saute groselle / cream with red currents? 

Diner

  • Potage de arroz / Rice Soup
  • Croutes ause champignons /  Crusts with mushrooms
  • Sole au gratin / Sole (fish) gratin
  • Pommes de terre roties / Roasted potatoes
  • Purée de Marrons / Mashed chestnuts
  • Desserts / Desserts
  • Le Café / Coffee

 


[1] The recipe for Huevos al raspado follows on page 47 – it appears to be something like an egg casserole, with raw eggs broken over a bed of bread crumbs, butter, anchovies, chopped parsley, and yolks of hard boiled eggs, and baked until the raw eggs set a little. Note: Many thanks to Dan Fromm for the interpretation of this recipe. 

Bolitas de Leche (Milk Balls), 1937.

September 29, 2014
Cuaderno de Recetas de Teresa Vélez O. Toluca, Mexico: 1937. TX716 .M4 V461 1937. UTSA Libraries Special Collections

Cuaderno de Recetas de Teresa Vélez O. Toluca, Mexico: 1937. TX716 .M4 V461 1937. UTSA Libraries Special Collections

Vélez Orozco, Teresa. LCuaderno de Recetas de Teresa Vélez O. Toluca, Mexico: 1937. TX716 .M4 V461 1937. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Manuscript cookbooks often include recipes documenting the social networks of their writers as friends, neighbors, and family share their recipes for everyday meals and special treats. In the case of this notebook from 1937, a note on one of the first pages indicates that the recipes were “dictadas y esperimentadas por la Sra María Vde de Chaix. However, it is not clear whether María is a personal friend of the writer or perhaps the instructor for a cooking course.

The bulk of this cookbook consists of traditional desserts, such as Budín de requesón, Brios, Panques, Cubiletes, Pasta de Durazno, Buñuelos, Turron de yemas, and Dulce de Piñon. Below is a recipe for Bolitas de Leche (Milk Balls). Most of the more recent recipes that I found for comparison use either powdered milk or sweetened condensed milk. I suspect the main benefit of either is to lessen the amount of time needed for the milk to reduce to an extent that allows one to shape it into balls.


Bolitas de Leche (00071)

Piloncillo………………..1/2 K. de prieto
Agua………………………1/2 litro
Leche……………………..1/2 litro
Anis……………………….una muñequita
Canela……………………un trocito
Cascara de naranja….un pedacito

M. de He.

Se pone la herbia la leche el pilonsillo y el agua ya que esté disuelto el pilonsillo [a] sa[ea] se cuela se pone al fuego con la muñequita de anis, la canela, y la cascara de naranja ya que esté de punto espeso y que se pueda hacer bolita con los de] dos se [vacea] luego [buelo] [de] alguna cosa que esté [engor] usada. 

Milk Balls (00071)

Mexican Brown Sugar Cones…… 1/2 kilogram dark
Water……………………………………..1/2 liter
Milk………………………………………..1/2 liter
Anise………………………………………a little piece (literally little doll)
Cinnamon……………………………….a small cinnamon stick
orange peel……………………………..a little piece

To Prepare:

Bring the milk to a boil. Dissolve the sugar in the water. Add the sugar water, anise, cinnamon, and orange peel to the milk. Continue to cook until the milk mixture becomes very thick and you can form balls from it.[1]


[1] The syntax of this recipe is complicated. I have done my best to draw out the order in which steps should occur. However, I am not entirely certain whether the milk should be brought to a boil and then have the water and sugar added (as written above), or whether all three ingredients should be brought to a boil simultaneously, with the sugar dissolving as the mixture heats.

Early Modern Recipes Online Collective (EMROC) and The Recipes Project

September 22, 2014

EMROC HomepageReading and transcribing recipes from UTSA’s manuscript cookbooks over the past several weeks led me to stumble upon two related websites that I suspect readers of La Cocina Histórica’s would also enjoy. First, The Early Modern recipes Online Collective (EMROC) describes projects involving transcription of manuscript recipe books written by four 17th century English women. The Recipes Project is an independent, but related blog featuring posts about historical recipes (for food, medicine, and more), transcription, teaching with recipes, and culinary collections. Three posts I particularly enjoyed include:

 Transcribing in Baby Steps by Jennifer Munroe

Pen, Ink, and Pedagogy by Amanda E. Herbert

Old-Fashioned Recipes, New-Fashioned Kitchens: Technology and Women’s Recipe Collecting in the Nineteenth Century by Rachel A. Snell

 

 

Pastel Pardo / Pardo’s Cake. 1920s.

September 15, 2014

de los Angeles Dávalos, María. Libreta de Cocina Manuscript Cookbook. San Luis Potosí: 1921-1951. TX716 .M4 D383 1921. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]

ibreta de Cocina Manuscript Cookbook by María de los Angeles Dávalos. San Luis Potosí: 1921-1951. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

ibreta de Cocina Manuscript Cookbook by María de los Angeles Dávalos. San Luis Potosí: 1921-1951. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


María de los Angeles Dávalos (and/or subsequent writers) inscribed three decades worth of recipes in Libreta de Cocina. Its contents are heavily weighted towards baking and dessert-preparation, but main course dishes such as Beef Tongue in Tuna fruit salsa make an occasional appearance.

The recipe below for Pastel Pardo is one of many cake recipes in Libreta de Cocina. This one, however, particularly caught my eye because “Pardo” was the name of an influential Mexico City chef who established one of the first cooking academies in Mexico City and also published several cookbooks in the early 20th century. While I could not find a cake just like this one in the three cookbooks by Alejandro Pardo in UTSA’s collection, it is possible that this might be a derivation of one of his recipes, or perhaps one that was included in his cooking classes. Then again, it might simply be a cake recipe provided to María de los Angeles Dávalos by a friend or neighbor named Pardo.


Libreta de Cocina will be on display in the John Peace Library Reading Room from August to December 2014.


Pastel Pardo (00013-00014)

Chocolate vainilla 250 gms, azucar 100 gms, harina 100 gms, mantequilla 280 gms, almendras picada y tostada 50 gms, Naranja cubierta picada 1 mitad, huevos 8, claras 6. Decorad[o] Merengue Italiano 5 claras, chochitos platiados 20 gms fondan 1/9 kilo, azucar. 

Modo de hacer el pastel

Se pone la mantequilla y el azucar y se vate hasta que esponje, y luego se van poniendo las yemas de una en una hasta que pongan las 8 yemas, luego se pone el chocolate rayado y la almendra picada y la naranja, aparte se baten 6 claras a punto de merengue y se rebuelve todo punto merengue con la mantequilla despues del chocolate se le pone la harina se echa en molde de corona engrasado y es polvoriado de harina y se meté a horno regular 40 [mins?] luego se vaña con el fondán, del merengue se aparta 1/4 parte y se le ponen 50 gramos de almendras tostados y picadas y el jugo de un límon se rellena con el merengue velga (este es el nombre del merengue) y se le hacen unos puntos de dos al [rastedor?] y en la superficie formando capete tambien de punto de dos y en todos los puntitos unos chochitos platiados. 

Pardo Cake (00013-00014)

  • 250 grams vanilla chocolate [1]
  • 100 grams sugar
  • 100 grams flour
  • 280 grams butter
  • 50 grams chopped, toasted almonds
  • 1/2 orange peel, candied and chopped.
  • 8 egg yolks [2]
  • 6 egg whites
  • Italian Meringue: 5 egg whites, silver dragees [3], 1/9 kilogram fondant, sugar

Preparation

Beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks one by one until you have added all eight of them. Then add the chocolate (grated), the chopped almonds, and the orange.

Separately, beat the 6 egg whites until they form peaks and then mix into the butter mixture after the chocolate. Then, add the flour and pour into a greased-and-floured ring pan. Bake in a moderate oven [4] for 40 minutes.

Later, cover the cake with the fondant. Separately, mid up the Italian Meringue. To 1/4th of the meringue, add 50 grams of toasted, chopped almonds and the juice of one lemon. Fill the middle of the ring with this mixture. Cover the cake and filing with the rest of the meringue and decorate with silver dragees.[5]


[1] Mexican chocolate is often sold with flavorings such as vanilla or pecan already added.

[2] Although the Spanish ingredients list 8 huevos and 6 claras, reading the instructions makes it clear in this case, the writer is using huevos/eggs to refer to yolks and claras/whites to specify egg whites.

[3] I was unable to identify a direct translation for chochitos platiados; however, I believe the writer is referring to the decorative, edible silver balls often used in cake decorating.

[4] A moderate oven is around 350-375*F.

[5] The final paragraph of this recipe twice includes the phrase “punto de dos.” As best as I can determine, I believe it is referring to covering both the cake itself and the meringue used as filling in the center of the ring of cake, with an outer cap of unflavored meringue, but I am not entirely certain of this.

Sopa de Cebolla con Crema (Creamy Onion Soup) and Puerco Frito a lo Habanero (Havana Pork). Circa 1911.

September 8, 2014
Libreta de Recetas de Cocina. Manuscript cookbook written by Aurora Vélez Orozco G., circa 1911. TX716 .M4 V462 1911. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Libreta de Recetas de Cocina. Manuscript cookbook written by Aurora Vélez Orozco G., circa 1911. TX716 .M4 V462 1911. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Vélez Orozco G., Aurora. Libreta de Recetas de Cocina [Manuscript Cookbook]. Toluca, Mexico State: circa 1911. TX716 .M4 V462 1911. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Libra de Recetas de Cocina is one of a series of nine manuscript cookbooks from a family in Toluca, the capitol of Mexico state. It is a small volume containing just twenty-four recipes on thirteen pages. Unlike last week’s featured dessert book, its focus is on savory dishes like onion soup, creamed spinach, and pork loin. However, it does include a few recipes for sweets such as Italian nougat at the end. Notice that the handwriting is markedly more difficult to read than that in the 1884 cookbook.


Libreta de Recetas de Cocina will be on display in the John Peace Library Reading Room from August to December 2014.


Sopa de Cebolla con Crema (00003)

Cantidades

  • 2 cebolas [cabesonas?] y grandes
  • 2 gitomates grandes
  • 0.02 c. de crema
  • caldo de pollo o de res
  • pedasas de pan frito o galletas soda

Se ponen a freir en manteca los gitomates. Asadas y molidas con ajo y cebolla alli [a?] cuela la cebolla con el caldo el que sea nesesario. Se deja [apre?] hierva a que sazone y en seguida se le desuelve la crema. [Lla] para serbirse se le ponen las galletas. 

Creamy Onion Soup (00003)

Quantities

  • 2 large onions
  • 2 large red tomatoes
  • 1/4 cup Mexican sour cream
  • chicken or beef broth
  • croutons or soda crackers

Fry the tomatoes in lard. Roast and grind them with garlic and onion. Cook the onion mixture in the broth. Strain the chunks out when cooked. Simmer the remaining soup to enhance the flavor, and then add the sour cream. Serve with crackers.

[1] “Cuela” seems to unambiguously mean “strain,” but I can’t figure out how one would strain onions with broth (as the syntax would seem to indicate). Instead, I am assuming that the onion mixture is being cooked in the broth and then the chunks are strained out.


Puerco Frito a lo Habanero (00007-00008)

Prepárece en un Platón un adobo de vinagre, oregano, sal y un poco de Pimienta molida y unos ajos machacados, échece en este caldo la carne de Puerco partida en pedazos, cuando se c[irc]osea que a toneado bien el gusto alli adobo, se raja la carne y se pone a freir en manteca. Sirvase con platanos verdes o pintos fritos y con arroz blanco.

Havana Pork (00007-00008)

Prepare a marinade of vinegar, oregano, salt, black pepper, and garlic. Add pieces of pork. When well-marinated, tear the meat intro strips and fry it in lard. Serve with plantains or fried beans and white rice.[1]

[1] If you read this recipe previously, you saw my speculation about the absence from the recipe itself of the habanero chiles that seemed implied by its name. However, a reader has since pointed out to me that Habanero also (and perhaps even more commonly) refers to the capital of Cuba, a native of that capital, and/or a particular style of music and dance, among other things. With that in mind, I believe that the title of this recipe correctly translates as Havana Pork, and no chiles are implied.  

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