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Niño Envuelto (Jelly Roll), 1939.

October 28, 2014
tags:
Libreta de Cocina (1939) by Socorro Rubio. TX716 .M4 R82 1939. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Libreta de Cocina (1939) by Socorro Rubio. TX716 .M4 R82 1939. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Rubio, Socorro. Libreta de Cocina. 1939. TX716 .M4 R82 1939. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


This week’s manuscript cookbook is somewhat unusual in that it is illustrated! Socorro Rubio apparently cut images from newspapers and other sources and pasted them into her handwritten recipe book.

Sometimes, the illustrations depict a specific dish, such as the loaf of bread following Pan Inglés, while other times the association is more general, as with the Royal Baking Powder image following the Japonesas recipe (cookies prepared with strawberry jam) or the scene of a woman preparing to bake following Galletas Almendredas. A few pages also have hand-drawn sketches (perhaps by a later owner or a child?), such as the shoe designs on the verso of page 42.

Although the latter part of the cookbook includes various savory recipes for dishes such as Tacos Poblanos and Mole Verde, the bulk of its contents are for baked goods, such as the simple sponge cake jelly roll below.


Niño Envuelto (Page03)

1 00 g. de harina
100 g. de azucar 
6 huevos
1 lata de mermelada

Manera de hacerse

En una cacerola [esmallada] o caso de cobre se ponen 100 gramos de azucar junto con 6 yemas se bate hasta que espese es decir hasta que tenga punto de cordón enseguido la harina se [cuerno] y se mezcla con envuelvar a de madera y se le agregan las 6 claras batidas a punto de turrón y se mezclan suavemente para que no se baye el batido este pasta se vacía en una charola de horno que estará perfectamente engrasada y enharinada se mete al horno en la seccion de enmedio hasta que dore se saca del horno y se vacía del horno y se vacía sobre una servilleta se unta de mermelada encima; se unta y se enrolla suavemente hasta que enfrie se parte de las [arrellas] diagonalmente si se desea se parte a la mitad se unta de mermelada y se le pone coco encima.


Jelly Roll (Page03)

1 00 grams flour
100 grams sugar
6 eggs
1 jar of marmalade or jam

Manera de hacerse

Combine 100 grams of sugar with 6 egg yolks and beat until fluffy. Fold in 6 egg whites (beaten separately until stiff). Bake in a greased and floured pan in the middle of the oven until golden. When you remove the cake from the oven, turn it out of the pan onto a cloth napkin. Spread with jam or marmalade and gently roll it up.[1]  When cool, cut into diagonal slices. If desired, reduce the amount of jam or marmalade by half and put coconut on top. 


[1] The lack of punctuation in the original recipe makes it somewhat difficult to determine which steps should be separated out to occur at different stages. I’ve translated the instructions as written to the best of my ability, but it may be worth noting that in my own experience, the process for making a jelly roll is usually slightly different: the cake is turned out out onto a tea towel while still warm, rolled into a log with the tea towel, allowed to cool, unrolled, spread with jam, and then re-rolled. I suspect that spreading the jam or marmalade onto the cake prior to rolling it the first time would cause it to melt into the cake, rather than remain a distinct filling.

Calling all translators! El Libro de Todos Los Moles

October 23, 2014

by E. S. Dempsey


I am working on translating El Libro de Todos los Moles by Paco Ignacio Taibo I, and am seeking fellow translators to provide feedback and advice.

The first half of El Libro de Todos los Moles  is a culinary history of the Mexican dish mole. The second part is a collection of mole recipes. Lots and lots of mole recipes.

The thing is, I have never cooked Mexican other than making tortillas from masa. It is mysterious and difficult for me to translate these directions, exotic spices and methods of cooking into English.

I have created a wordpress blog about my translation project at MoleLibro.wordpress.com, and a Google+ page for discussing Spanish words and phrases that I am unsure about how to translate:

If anyone is interested in offering comments and discussing my translation, I would be grateful.

 

Salsas de Sr. H. Winder (1904)

October 20, 2014
tags:
Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Morante, Paulina. Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder. Méjico, Noviembre 1904. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Cooking classes were a popular past time among Mexico’s middle and upper class women in the early to mid 20th century. Cookbook authors such as Alejandro Pardo and Josefina Velázquez de León earned significant portions of their living as culinary instructors, which provided opportunities to directly influence the culinary (and cookbook-reading) habits of the Mexican elite.

The title of today’s manuscript cookbook, which translates roughly as Recipes of Professor Mrs. H. Winder, seems likely to be the result of creator Paulina Morante’s enrollment in a cooking class of this kind. The recipes are inscribed in a beautiful, unhurried hand (albeit with little or no punctuation) and the title of each dish is clearly marked in larger writing with flourishes. Beginning with soups, the recipe book then moves on to eggs, sauces, an extensive section on fish, poultry and waterfowl, beef and pork, and finally a variety of recipes that don’t seem to fit into a single unified category. This final section includes dishes such as beignets á la Lorraine (Lorraine-style fritters), gelatina (gelatin), alcachofas á la Italiana (Italian artichokes), and Langosta á la Americana (American-style lobster).

Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Recetas de Cocina por Mi Profesor Sr. H. Winder (1904) by Paulina Morante. TX716 .M4 M66 1904. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Following the index for pages 1-57 are several pages of recipes of quite different appearance than the preceding ones. The handwriting appears much more hurried or informal, and although each recipe is still titled, the titles are written in the same style and size of writing as the recipes themselves. Also, unlike in the earlier pages, recipes frequently run together, with no empty lines between them. The recipes in this section primarily consist of chicken and beef dishes, although there is also a recipe for hollandaise sauce, an egg dish, and tamales muy finas. Presumably, Paulina Morante (or a later owner) used the blank pages at the end of her course notes to record other recipes that she wished to remember and keep track of.

The salsas included in the second section of this recipe book are meant to be applicable to a wide variety of dishes. The recipes below explain how to make mayonnaise, tomato sauce, and madeira sauce.


Salsa Mayoneza (00013)

Yemas de huevo
Mostaza Francesa
Mucho aceite
Poco vinagre
Sal pimienta

Se incorpora el huevo con la mostaza despues el aceite pero muy poco á poco casi de gota en gota y sin dejar de de moler la salsa con otra [?] se agrega sal pimienta y al última el vinagre al gusto.

Si á esta salsa se le agrega. [Estrayon], [Perifollo], y pepinos infurtidos y picados se le llama salsa – Tartara

La misma agregandole Challotes se llama – Ravigot

Se pone en una caserola un trozo de mantequilla, seboya, zanahoria, perejil y jamón picado esto se pone á freir cuando lo este se le agrega harina unos jitomates bien desbaratados y un poco de caldo, se pone otra vez á la lumbre con otro trocito de mantequilla. Esta salsa sirve para el pescado para los asados etc. etc. 

 

Mayonnaise (00013)

Egg yolks
French mustard
Lots of oil
A little vinegar
salt and pepper

Mix the eggs with mustard and then the oil, but a little at a time, almost drop by drop, and without ceasing to mix the sauce as you add it. Add the salt and pepper, and at the very end, vinegar to taste.

If the following ingredients are added: tarragon, chervil, and pickled cucumbers (chopped), it is called salsa Tartara.

If the same sauce has shallots added, it is called Ravigote.


Salsa de Jitomate (00014)

Se pone en una caserola un trozo de mantequilla, seboya, zanahoria, perejil y jamón picado esto se pone á freir cuando lo este se le agrega harina unos jitomates bien desbaratados y un poco de caldo, se pone otra vez á la lumbre con otro trocito de mantequilla. Esta salsa sirve para el pescado para los asados etc. etc. 

 

Tomato Sauce (00014)

In a pot, combine a bit of butter, onion, carrots, parsley and ham (all chopped up). As this cooks, add flour, tomatoes (well-mashed) and a little broth. Return to the heat with a bit more butter. This sauce may be served with fish, roasts, etc. etc.


Salsa Madeira (00016)

Se dora en mantequilla un poco de harina á que quede color de chocolate se le agrega jugo de carne o calda yervas de olor sebolla zanahoria y el vino de Madeira que antes habra hervido en un caserola. 

Madeira Sauce (00016)

Brown a little flour in some butter till it turns the color of chocolate. Then, add beef stock or a broth of fragrant herbs, onion, and carrots. Also add Madeira wine (previously brought to boil in another pot).


[1]

High Tea in Mexico

October 13, 2014
Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina (1902) by Hortensia Volante. TX716 .M4 V65 1902. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina (1902) by Hortensia Volante. TX716 .M4 V65 1902. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Volante, Hortensia. Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina. 1902. TX716 .M4 V65 1902.  Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Last week’s post featured menus from Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces, one of eleven school notebooks belonging to Hortensia Volante, ranging in date from 1900-1928. This week, we take a look at one of Hortensia’s notebooks from 1902.

Although Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina contains a wide variety of savory and sweet recipes, one of the most interesting entries is the one for Te (tea). Sandwiched between Dulce de Peras (pear candy) and Natillas (custard), Hortensia recorded instructions not for how to make tea, but for what to serve at Tea, a social meal or event derived from the English tradition.

Te [00040]

Un te resuelta muy bien servido con los siguientes elementos: te, leche, sandwichs,  panecillos de foie gras, petits gateaux de soirée, panecitos, plum puding, un baba, una brioche grande, galletas saladas y de otras sortes, lenguas de gato, pastas para te y dulces. Vinos Jerez y o porto.

Tea [00040]

A tea goes well if the following are served: tea, milk, sandwiches, rolls with foie gras, Petits fours, bread rolls, plum pudding, baba [1], a large brioche [2],  soda crackers and other kinds, cat tongue cookies [3], [pastas] for tea [4], sweet wine, sherry, or port.


[1] Baba is a French dessert, often referring to rum baba, which is a yeast-based pastry saturated with rum and filled with cream.

[2] Brioche is a rich egg bread of French origin.

[3] See past posts for cat tongue cookie recipes. No felines were harmed in the making of these.

[4] Hortensia uses both French and Spanish in her notebooks. If French, pasta would translate as Italian pasta noodles; if Spanish, it would translate as something like pastry dough. In this context, I could imagine it referring either to the kinds of cold pasta salads one might serve at a luncheon or a variety of small pastries suitable for the same.

Dining elegantly in the early 20th century

October 6, 2014
tags:
Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Volante, Cármen. Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. ca. 1910-1919. TX716 .M4 V653 1910.  Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces is one of eleven school notebooks belonging to Hortensia Volante between 1900-1928. This particular volume is the only one ascribed to a different author, most likely one of Hortensia’s relatives.

At almost two hundred pages, this cookbook contains an impressive array of recipes not only for desserts and sweets (as the title implies), but also savory dishes and several menus for fairly elaborate dinners.

The handwriting of the menus is much more upright than that used for the recipes. This might suggest that a different author contributed the menus, or perhaps the menus were written at a later date when her handwriting habits had changed. It is worth noting that several of the recipes after around page 160 also appear to be in a different, less elegantly polished hand.

The title page (beautifully illustrated with wildflowers) contains this menu in French:

  • Pota[c]e a la Julienne / Potage
  • Omelette au jambon / Ham omelette
  • Canard aux salsi[f]is / Duck with sauce
  • Macaronie L’italienne / Italian Macaroni
  • Sole au gratin /  Sole (fish) gratin
  • Filet de Boeuf roti / Fillet of roast beef
  • Desserts. The. Café. Liquers / Desserts, tea, coffee, liqueurs.

Page 46 contains four more menus. Although predominantly in Spanish, French and English words are used periodically.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Menu

  • Sopa de tapioca / Tapioca soup
  • Huevos al raspado / Egg dish made with strips of bread [1]
  • Coles de Bruselas / Brussels sprouts
  • Vaca á la moda / Beef á la mode
  • Macarrones con leche / Macaroni with milk
  • Fricasse de pollo / Chicken Fricasse
  • Pina.   Melón / Pineapple. Melon.
  • Crema á la vainilla / Vanilla cream

Menu

  • Sopa de poro / Leek soup
  • Pescado en salsa blanca / Fish in white sauce
  • Huevos Rusos / Russian eggs (deviled eggs topped with caviar)
  • Pichones en almendra / Squab with almonds
  • Alcachofas / Artichokes
  • Pollo asado / Roast chicken
  • Fresas con nata / Strawberries with cream
  • Crema de café / Coffee cream

Eleven more menus can be found on pages 49-50, most of which are entitled “Diner,” and make heavy use of French, as in the two examples below:

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Resetas de Cocina: Refrescos, Reposteria, Dulces. 1910 manuscript cookbook written by Cármen Volante. TX716 .M4 V653 1910. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Diner

  • Potage purée de pois / Pureed peas potage
  • Vol-au-vent / Filled puff pastries
  • Veau a l’oseille [oviera?]/ Veal with sorrel
  • Salade russe / Russian salad
  • Oie rotie [ganso] / Roast goose
  • Crema saute groselle / cream with red currents? 

Diner

  • Potage de arroz / Rice Soup
  • Croutes ause champignons /  Crusts with mushrooms
  • Sole au gratin / Sole (fish) gratin
  • Pommes de terre roties / Roasted potatoes
  • Purée de Marrons / Mashed chestnuts
  • Desserts / Desserts
  • Le Café / Coffee

 


[1] The recipe for Huevos al raspado follows on page 47 – it appears to be something like an egg casserole, with raw eggs broken over a bed of bread crumbs, butter, anchovies, chopped parsley, and yolks of hard boiled eggs, and baked until the raw eggs set a little. Note: Many thanks to Dan Fromm for the interpretation of this recipe. 

Bolitas de Leche (Milk Balls), 1937.

September 29, 2014
Cuaderno de Recetas de Teresa Vélez O. Toluca, Mexico: 1937. TX716 .M4 V461 1937. UTSA Libraries Special Collections

Cuaderno de Recetas de Teresa Vélez O. Toluca, Mexico: 1937. TX716 .M4 V461 1937. UTSA Libraries Special Collections

Vélez Orozco, Teresa. LCuaderno de Recetas de Teresa Vélez O. Toluca, Mexico: 1937. TX716 .M4 V461 1937. Mexican Cookbook Collection. UTSA Libraries Special Collections. [Digital Surrogate]


During September and October, La Cocina Histórica will feature recipes from recently digitized manuscript cookbooks. 


Manuscript cookbooks often include recipes documenting the social networks of their writers as friends, neighbors, and family share their recipes for everyday meals and special treats. In the case of this notebook from 1937, a note on one of the first pages indicates that the recipes were “dictadas y esperimentadas por la Sra María Vde de Chaix. However, it is not clear whether María is a personal friend of the writer or perhaps the instructor for a cooking course.

The bulk of this cookbook consists of traditional desserts, such as Budín de requesón, Brios, Panques, Cubiletes, Pasta de Durazno, Buñuelos, Turron de yemas, and Dulce de Piñon. Below is a recipe for Bolitas de Leche (Milk Balls). Most of the more recent recipes that I found for comparison use either powdered milk or sweetened condensed milk. I suspect the main benefit of either is to lessen the amount of time needed for the milk to reduce to an extent that allows one to shape it into balls.


Bolitas de Leche (00071)

Piloncillo………………..1/2 K. de prieto
Agua………………………1/2 litro
Leche……………………..1/2 litro
Anis……………………….una muñequita
Canela……………………un trocito
Cascara de naranja….un pedacito

M. de He.

Se pone la herbia la leche el pilonsillo y el agua ya que esté disuelto el pilonsillo [a] sa[ea] se cuela se pone al fuego con la muñequita de anis, la canela, y la cascara de naranja ya que esté de punto espeso y que se pueda hacer bolita con los de] dos se [vacea] luego [buelo] [de] alguna cosa que esté [engor] usada. 

Milk Balls (00071)

Mexican Brown Sugar Cones…… 1/2 kilogram dark
Water……………………………………..1/2 liter
Milk………………………………………..1/2 liter
Anise………………………………………a little piece (literally little doll)
Cinnamon……………………………….a small cinnamon stick
orange peel……………………………..a little piece

To Prepare:

Bring the milk to a boil. Dissolve the sugar in the water. Add the sugar water, anise, cinnamon, and orange peel to the milk. Continue to cook until the milk mixture becomes very thick and you can form balls from it.[1]


[1] The syntax of this recipe is complicated. I have done my best to draw out the order in which steps should occur. However, I am not entirely certain whether the milk should be brought to a boil and then have the water and sugar added (as written above), or whether all three ingredients should be brought to a boil simultaneously, with the sugar dissolving as the mixture heats.

Early Modern Recipes Online Collective (EMROC) and The Recipes Project

September 22, 2014

EMROC HomepageReading and transcribing recipes from UTSA’s manuscript cookbooks over the past several weeks led me to stumble upon two related websites that I suspect readers of La Cocina Histórica’s would also enjoy. First, The Early Modern recipes Online Collective (EMROC) describes projects involving transcription of manuscript recipe books written by four 17th century English women. The Recipes Project is an independent, but related blog featuring posts about historical recipes (for food, medicine, and more), transcription, teaching with recipes, and culinary collections. Three posts I particularly enjoyed include:

 Transcribing in Baby Steps by Jennifer Munroe

Pen, Ink, and Pedagogy by Amanda E. Herbert

Old-Fashioned Recipes, New-Fashioned Kitchens: Technology and Women’s Recipe Collecting in the Nineteenth Century by Rachel A. Snell

 

 

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