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Jaibas Rellenas (Stuffed Crabs, Veracruz-Style) (1950)

April 14, 2014
Good food from Mexico (1950) by Ruth Watt Mulvey and Luisa Maria Alvarez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Good food from Mexico (1950) by Ruth Watt Mulvey and Luisa Maria Alvarez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Mulvey, Ruth Watt and Luisa Maria Alvarez. Good Food From Mexico. New York : M. Barrows, c1950. [TX716.M4 M85 1950]


Jaibas Rellenas (Stuffed Crabs, Veracruz-Style)  (111)

  • 12 crabs
  • 2 sprigs parsley, chopped
  • 1/4 cup almonds, blanched and ground
  • 2 tablespoons seedless raisins
  • 1 onion, chopped fine
  • 1 medium-sized tomato, peeled, chopped, and drained
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 8 stuffed olives, chopped
  • 12 capers
  • 3/4 cup pine nuts
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3/4 cup fine bread crumbs
  • 4 tablespoons butter

Remove crab meat from shells and wash both well. Chop the crab meat and add it to a sauce which has been made by frying the parsley, almonds, raisins, onion, tomato, garlic, olives, capers and pine nuts together for two or three minutes in the olive oil. Place the mixture in the crab shells. Cover with bread crumbs and bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven (350*F) until brown. Yield: six servings.

Enchiladas Guadalajara (1950)

April 7, 2014
Good food from Mexico (1950) by Ruth Watt Mulvey and Luisa Maria Alvarez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Good food from Mexico (1950) by Ruth Watt Mulvey and Luisa Maria Alvarez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Mulvey, Ruth Watt. Good Food From Mexico. New York : M. Barrows, c1950. [TX716.M4 M85 1950]


Enchiladas Guadalajara  (76)

  • 2 sweet peppers
  • 2 medium sized tomatoes, peeled
  • 1 medium-sized onion
  • 4 ounces shortening
  • 2 tablespoons milk
  • 1/4 cup clotted cream
  • 1 teaspoon alcohol
  • Salt
  • 6 tortillas (bought), fried
  • 1 small head lettuce
  • Radishes

Remove seeds from sweet peppers and chop with tomatoes and onion. Fry in one tablespoon shortening about ten minutes. Add milk, clotted cream, alcohol and salt to taste. Cook about two minutes. Dip tortillas in sauce, place a tablespoon of the following filling on each and roll. Serve very hot, garnished with lettuce leaves and radishes. Yield: six servings.

Filling

  • 2 sweet peppers, chopped
  • 4 ounces fresh cheese, mashed
  • 1 large avocado, diced
  • 8 radishes, chopped

Mix peppers, cheese, avocado and radishes. 

Postres de Coco y Nueces / Coconut and Nut Desserts (1953)

March 31, 2014
tags:
La cocina selecta (1953) by  María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Díez de Pérez, María. La Cocina Selecta: Más de Mil Fórmulas de Guisos, Repostería, Panes, Dulces y Helados, para las Amas de Casa que Gustan Presentar una Buena Mesa. Veracruz: Mprenta Comercial Veracruz ; 1953. [TX716.M4 D539 1953]


We close out our month with María Díez de Pérez’s La Cocina Selecta… by sharing a few of her more unusual deserts.


Leche de Coco / Coconut Milk  (157)

Se hace miel con ½ kilo de azúcar de punto de bola y se enfría; a éste se le mezclan 6 yemas de huevo bien batidas y se pone al fuego. Cuando comienza a espesar se le pone la leche de dos cocos exprimida por una servilleta y se dea tomar punto de postre. 

Prepare a syrup with 2 ½ cups sugar, bringing it to the soft ball stage and then cooling. Mix with 6 well-beaten egg yolks and return to the heat. When the mixture begins to thicken, add the milk of two coconuts strained through a napkin and serve as a dessert.


Rosquitas de Nuez / Pecan Rings (182)

Pelada la nuez se pesa y a medio kilo de nuez pelada se le unen 115 gramos de almendra que se pela y muele con la nuez y ½ kilo de azúcar. Se forman las rosquitas y cuecen ligeramente al horno, pues si se dejan dorar quedan muy duras. 

Take 4 ½ cups shelled pecans and grind. Add 1 ¼ cups ground almonds and 2 ½ cups sugar. Form into rings and bake lightly – if left in the oven to brown, they will be very hard.


 

Sol de China / Sun of China (183) 

1/4 Kilo almendras molidas, 100 gramos coco rayado, 4 tazas de leche 6 yemas de huevo batidas y 1 kilo de azúcar. Se pone todo al fuego sin dejar de moverlo y cuando comienza a tomar punto de pasta se le agrega el jugo de una piña molida y exprimida; se deja tomar punto de pasta y se vacía en un platón. 

Combine 2 ½ cups ground almonds, 1 1/3 cups shredded coconut, 4 cups milk, 6 beaten egg yolks, and 5 cups sugar. Heat slowly without stirring and when the mixture begins to form a paste, add the juice of one crushed pineapple. Leave until the mixture forms a paste and then place on platter.

Bizcochos (1953)

March 24, 2014
tags:
La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Díez de Pérez, María. La Cocina Selecta: Más de Mil Fórmulas de Guisos, Repostería, Panes, Dulces y Helados, para las Amas de Casa que Gustan Presentar una Buena Mesa. Veracruz: Mprenta Comercial Veracruz ; 1953. [TX716.M4 D539 1953]


The longest chapter by far in La Cocina Selecta… is Reposteria y Dulces. While most other sections offer between ten and a hundred dishes, her chapter on desserts includes more than 400 recipes! In honor of Díez de Pérez’ evident sweet tooth, we’ll spend two weeks on sweets, beginning with two (of the more than 30) recipes for bizcoches below.


Bizcocho de Almendra / Almond Sponge Cake  (129)

Se amasa medio kilo de harina con cien gramos de mantequilla sal. 4 huevos. 150 gramos de azúcar y 150 gramos de almendras peladas y molidas. Se hace un pastel Redondo, se cubre de azúcar y cuece al horno. 

Knead together 4 cups of flour with 2/5 cup butter. Add 4 eggs, ¾ cup sugar, and 1 cup ground almonds.

Note: Although bizcocho is generally translated as sponge cake, it can also be used to refer broadly to any sweet bread, usually without yeast [1], and that seems to be the case here. The proportion of dry to liquid ingredients in this recipe, and the absence of any mention of a cake pan suggests that it produces something more like a sweet scone or round shortbread. In the absence of specific instructions regarding temperature, it may require some experimentation to obtain ideal results. The range is probably somewhere between 375-425*F. 


Bizcochos de Chocolate (130)

Se revuelven 6 huevos, 30 gramos chocolate, 115 gramos harina y 280 gramos azúcar. Se amasa todo, forman los bizcochitos y cuecen al horno.

Combine 6 eggs, ¼ cup grated chocolate, 1 cup flour, 1 2/5 cup sugar. Knead the mixture, form into biscochitos, and bake in the oven.

Note: This bizcocho recipe, on the other hand, seems like it would produce something like American cookies or perhaps English-style digestive biscuits. Again, without temperature guidelines, some experimentation is necessary, but a starting point of 350-375 would probably be safe.  

Enchiladas Poblanas and Envueltos de Guacamole (1953)

March 17, 2014
tags:
La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Díez de Pérez, María. La Cocina Selecta: Más de Mil Fórmulas de Guisos, Repostería, Panes, Dulces y Helados, para las Amas de Casa que Gustan Presentar una Buena Mesa. Veracruz: Mprenta Comercial Veracruz ; 1953. [TX716.M4 D539 1953]


Díez de Pérez’ chapter on Moles includes 16 recipes. In addition to several mole sauce recipes simply meant to be served on top of cooked chicken or turkey, she also includes recipes for enchiladas and envueltos. Two of these follow below.


Enchiladas Poblanas  (108)

4 chiles anchos, 4 pasillas y 4 mulatos se tuestan, remojan y muelen con ajonjoli tostado, tortilla frita, pan frito, almendras fritas con todo y cáscara, tomates de cascara asados, ajos asados, especias finas, anis, cominos, y cilantro de bolita tostado; se fríen todo y se suelta con caldo. Se guise un buen picadillo de res y Puerco, pasas, aceitunas, alcaparras y vinagre. Se mojan las tortillas en la salsa, se rellenan de la carne y enrollan. Colocadas en un platón se les pone el resto de la salsa por encima, adornándolas con queso, cebolla en ruedas, encurtidos, rabanitos, y lechuga. 

Toast, re-hydrate, and grind 4 ancho chiles 4 pasilla chiles and 4 mulatto chiles with toasted sesame seeds, a fried tortilla, fried breadcrumbs, fried almonds (skins and all), roasted tomatillos (without husks), roasted garlic, fine spices, anise, cumin, and toasted whole coriander. Fry this mixture and add a bit of broth. Make a picadillo of ground beef and pork with raisins, olives, capers and vinegar. Dip the tortillas in the salsa, fill with the meat, and roll up. Place the rolled tortillas on a platter and top with the remaining sauce, garnishing with cheese, onion, pickles, radishes, and lettuce.


Envueltos de Guacamole (108)

Se muelen gitomates cocidos y chilpotles (sic) en vinagre se fríen en Manteca. Se pasan tortillas por Manteca, se rellenan de hebritas de carne de Puerco y se enrollan bañándolas de la salsa de jitomate y se colocan en un platón. Se cubren por encima de una pasta de guacamole hecho de aguacate, aceite, vinagre, chiles verde, cebolla y sal, adornándose con lechuga y rabanos. 

Grind cooked red tomatoes and chipotle chiles in vinegar and then fry the mixture in lard. Dip the rotillas in lard, fill with strands of pork meat, and roll after dipping in the salsa, and place on a serving platter. Cover the top with a paste of guacamole made with avocados, oil, vinegar, green chiles, onion, and salt. Finally, adorn with lettuce and radishes.

Note: Chile verde can be used to refer to any green chile meant to be used fresh. Most of the time, it refers to serrano or jalapeño chiles. [1] 


[1] Zurita, Ricardo Muñoz, “Chile Verde,” Larousse Diccionario Enciclopédico de Gastronomía Mexicana (s.l.: Larousse, 2012): 171

Bacalao en Ajo Blanco y Camarones del Labrador. Yucateco. / Cod in White Garlic and Yucatecan Shrimp (1953)

March 10, 2014
tags:

La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Díez de Pérez, María. La Cocina Selecta: Más de Mil Fórmulas de Guisos, Repostería, Panes, Dulces y Helados, para las Amas de Casa que Gustan Presentar una Buena Mesa. Veracruz: Mprenta Comercial Veracruz ; 1953. [TX716.M4 D539 1953]


Seafood plays an important role in Mexican cuisine throughout the year, but in this primarily Roman Catholic country, it takes on particular importance during Lent, the 40 days of preparation before Easter. La Cocina Selecta… includes a wide variety of maritime dishes. This weeks recipes include cod and shrimp.


Bacalao en Ajo Blanco / Cod in White Garlic (37)

Se muelen 2 cabezas de ajo y se fríen en abundante aceite, allí se agrega una cucharadita de harina, se suelta con agua, allí se pone el bacalao, perejil picado y pimiento. 

Crush 2 heads of garlic and fry in plenty of oil, add a teaspoon of flour, and when the garlic releases liquid, add the cod, chopped parsley, and pepper.


Camarones del  Labrador. Yucateco. / Yucatecan Labrador Shrimp (41)

Boil and chop zucchini, chayote, ripe plantain and two potatoes. Grind well, tomatillos, onions, chile dulce Pretty tomato, onion, chile dulce, chile “xcat-ic,” olives, capers, raisins and parsley. Fry this mixture and add fresh shrimp, vegetables, annatto, cumin and pepper, and ground roasted garlic, vinegar and salt.  

Boil and chop zucchini, chayote, ripe plantain and two potatoes. Grind well, tomatillos, onions, chile dulce Pretty tomato, onion, chile dulce, chile “xcat-ic,” olives, capers, raisins and parsley. Fry this mixture and add fresh shrimp, vegetables, annatto, cumin and pepper, and ground roasted garlic, vinegar and salt.

Note: Chile dulce generally refers to peppers without heat. In the Yucatan peninsula, it refers to a specific sweet pepper not widely available elsewhere, but a sweet bell pepper is a good substitute. [1] Chile xcat-ic is a yellow chile specific to the Yucatan peninsula. [2] A Hungarian wax pepper would be a good substitute. [3]


[1] Zurita, Ricardo Muñoz, “Chile Dulce,” Larousse Diccionario Enciclopédico de Gastronomía Mexicana (s.l.: Larousse, 2012): 176

[2] Zurita, Ricardo Muñoz, “Chile Xcatik,” Larousse Diccionario Enciclopédico de Gastronomía Mexicana (s.l.: Larousse, 2012): 171.

[3] Fromm, Dan, The Great Mexican Cookbook in the Sky: México’s National Community Cookbook [unpublished manuscript, draft]: 2190.

Sopa de Arroz a la Veracruzana and Sopa de Tortilla al Vapor / Veracruz-style Rice Soup and Steamed Tortilla Casserole (1953)

March 3, 2014
La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

La cocina selecta (1953) by María Díez de Pérez. UTSA Libraries Special Collections.

Díez de Pérez, María. La Cocina Selecta: Más de Mil Fórmulas de Guisos, Repostería, Panes, Dulces y Helados, para las Amas de Casa que Gustan Presentar una Buena Mesa. Veracruz: Mprenta Comercial Veracruz ; 1953. [TX716.M4 D539 1953]


This second edition of Díez de Pérez’ mid-century cookbook opens with a chapter of soup recipes, beginning with a reminder to readers that the most essential ingredient for a good soup is a good soup stock:

La base de una Buena sopa es un buen caldo y éste no se consigue más que poniendo en una olla de peltre, o de metal, agua, y cuando hierve se le ponen huesos de cadera y huesos blancos, cebolla, yerbabuena, ajos machacados, un puerro, una zanahoria, un nabo y su sal. Se deja todo hervir hasta que consume un poco y se aparta para de allí colarlo para las sopas.

The basis of a good soup is a good stock. To prepare, bring water to boil in a pewter or metal pot with hip bones and white bones, onion, mint, crushed garlic, a leek, a carrot, a turnip and salt. Allow to boil a bit and then strain to use in soup.

Note: It is not entirely clear what kind of bones Díez de Pérez refers to here. Hip bones probably, but not definitively, refers to a pork or beef  hip joint bone. White bones may refer to marrow bones or ham hocks; or, it may refer specifically to a kind of specially-treated salted ham hocks bone sometimes used as a soup base in Spain.  

Two of the many soup recipes in this chapter follow. The first is a “wet” soup calling for caldo like that described above, while the second is a “dry” soup like a casserole.


Sopa de Arroz a la Veracruzana / Veracruz-style Rice Soup (8)

Se lava y escurre el arroz en un colador. Se muele tomate rojo con cebolla y uno o dos dientes de ajo; esto se fríe en Manteca y alla mismo se fríe el arroz hasta que se dora y suena en la cazuela (ésta ha de se plana), entonces se le agrega caldo, la sal suficiente, un chile gordo verde y se tapa. Se pone a cocer a fuego lento y ya no se mueve más que agitando la cazuela.  

Wash and drain the rice in a colander. Grind red tomato with onion and one or two garlic cloves; then fry this mixture in lard. In the same lard, fry the rice until brown and crackles in the pan sounds in the pan. Then add the soup stock, sufficient salt, and a green poblano chile and cover. Leave to cook over low heat, stirring occasionally.


Sopa de Tortilla al Vapor / Steamed Tortilla Casserole (28)

Se fríe tortilla en cuadritos. En un platón que resista al fuego, se unta de mantequilla blanca, y se pone una capa de la tortilla, otra de buena salsa de gitomate, cebolla, ajo, y perejil, frita en Manteca, otra de tortilla y otra de salsa, dos huevos cocidos y muy picaditos y trocitos de mantequilla. Se cuece a dos fuegos, y al servirla se le pone polvo de queso por encima.

Fry tortillas and tear into quarters. Grease a heat-resistant dish with butter and place in it a layer of tortillas, then another layer of good red tomato salsa (red tomatoes, onion, garlic, and parsley fried in lard),another layer of tortillas, and another of salsa, then two finely-chopped hard-boiled eggs, and little pieces of butter. Cook between two fires and serve topped with grated cheese.

Note: To “cook between two fires” traditionally means to apply heat from both above and below. Briefly placing the casserole dish in a pre-heated oven under a broiler would probably work. The use of “steamed” in the title would seem to suggest the use of a double-broiler. However, I am not sure how one would go about applying heat from above in that situation. 

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